New restrictions for the UV filters Benzophenone-3 and Octocrylene

July 8, 2022 – On October 13, 2021, the European Commission submitted to the World Trade Organization (WTO) a draft Regulation amending Annex VI to the EU Cosmetics Regulation — namely, the list of UV filters allowed in cosmetic products. The modification concerns two substances, Benzophenone-3 and Octocrylene.

The commenting period lasted until December 13, 2021. Afterwards, the European Commission will likely adopt the final Regulation in the second quarter of 2022.

Both Benzophenone-3 and Octocrylene were suspected of having endocrine-disrupting properties and were included in the list of substances to be assessed with high priority (Group A). Hence, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety evaluated them and released the related scientific opinions in March 2021 — SCCS 1625/20 and SCCS 1627/21.

The draft Regulation aims to implement the Scientific Committee‘s findings in the EU cosmetics regulatory framework.

Benzophenone-3

Benzophenone-3 (CAS 131-57-7) is an organic aromatic ketone found in some flowering plants. At the moment, in cosmetics, it is used as a UV filter up to a maximum concentration of 6% and up to 0.5% to protect the cosmetic formulation.

According to the draft, BP-3 entry in Annex VI to the EU Cosmetics Regulation will be amended as follow:

  • Up to 6% in face products, hand products, and lip products, excluding propellant and pump spray products. If used at 0.5% to protect the product formulation, the levels used as UV filter must not exceed 5.5%;
  • Up to 2.2% in body products, including propellant and pump spray products. If used at 0.5% to protect product formulation, the levels used as UV filter must not exceed 1.7%;
  • Up to 0.5% in other products.

As a reminder, when more than 0.5%, labels must bear the additional warning ‘contain Benzopenone-3’.

Octocrylene

Octocrylene (CAS 6197-30-4) is a soluble oil. It absorbs UVB and short UVA (UVA-II, between 315 nm and 340 nm) radiations. Thus, in cosmetic products, it has the functions of light stabilizer and UV filter.

Currently, the EU Cosmetics Regulation allows its use as a UV filter up to 10% in the finished product. Conversely, the draft foresees the following restrictions:

  • Up to 9% in propellent spray products;
  • Up to 10% in other products.

Applicability

The European Commission should grant a reasonable time for the industry to adapt to the new requirements, especially as brands will need to reformulate their products in some cases. Therefore, the Regulation will enter into force after 20 days from publication in the Official Journal of the European Union. From that moment, cosmetics containing Benzophenone-3 and Octocrylene in concentrations compliant with the old restrictions can still enter the EU market for additional six months and be made available for 12 months.

 

Update from 08/07/2022

Commission Regulation (EU) 2022/1176

On July 7, 2022, the European Commission issued the Commission Regulation (EU) 2022/1176, which foresees new limits for the UV filters Benzophenone-3 and Octocrylene as specified above. The Regulation will enter into force on July 28, 2022.

As for the application deadlines, starting from January 28, 2023, beauty brands can place on the EU market cosmetic products that comply with these restrictions only. On the other hand, manufacturers that place cosmetic products on the EU market in compliance with the previous requirements until January 28, 2023, have until July 28, 2023, to make those available on the EU market. This is to give reasonable time to the industry to adapt to the new requirements and withdraw non-compliant products from the market.

You can find add additional information about these two UV filters in COSlaw.eu Watch-out Database. Check the entries of Benzophenone-3 and Octocrylene.

 

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References:
  • European Commission. (2022). Commission Regulation (EU) 2022/1176 of 7 July 2022 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards the use of certain UV filters in cosmetic products. Retrieved on 08/07/2022
  • European Commission. (2021). Commission Regulation (EU) …/… of XXX amending regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards the use of certain UV filters in cosmetic products. Retrieved on 16/12/2021
  • European Commission. (2021). Annex to the Commission Regulation (EU) …/… of XXX amending regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards the use of certain UV filters in cosmetic products. Retrieved on 16/12/2021
  • World Trade Organization. (2021). Regular notification G/TBT/N/EU/843. Retrieved on 16/12/2021

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